Remember when the women at Twin Peaks made nostalgia new again?

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Written by Ananda Pellerin, CNN

Before Netflix, before sagas like "Game of Thrones" – before high-speed internet – there was "Twin Peaks".

It is no exaggeration to say that without "Twin Peaks", there would be "Buffy the Vampire Slayer", "no Riverdale" and possibly "Gilmore Girls". Setting the stage for the cutting-edge television drama, David Lynch's groundbreaking police procedure, which first aired 30 years ago on April 8, 1990, brought American Gothic culture into the mainstream.

In equal parts "Twilight Zone" and "Dynasty," "Twin Peaks" was a departure from the conventional plots of popular primetime dramas like "L.A. Law" and "MacGyver." His legacy transcends its short duration (two seasons, until a third was released in 2017) and its cult status, crawling on the covers of Time and Rolling Stone, and in cooler conversations around the world.

Catherine E Coulson as the

Catherine E Coulson as the "Lady of Record" Credit: ABC Photo Archives / Walt Disney Television / Getty Images

But it wasn't just the unsolved mystery of who killed the homecoming queen, Laura Palmer, that brought viewers back to the haunting, haunted West Coast city, filled with mischief, sexual escapades, and a legendary " darkness "lurking nearby forest. Filmed on film, the show had a cinematic feel that was unusual for television at the time, with Lynch's signature psychosexual surrealism (seen in previous independent releases such as "Blue Velvet" and "Eraserhead") increasing the tension of each saturation. visually and emotionally scene.

Kyle MacLachlan as FBI special agent Dale Cooper and Michael Ontkean as local sheriff Harry S Truman

Kyle MacLachlan as FBI special agent Dale Cooper and Michael Ontkean as local sheriff Harry S Truman Credit: ABC Photo Archives / Walt Disney Television / Getty Images

This tone owes a great debt to the show's costumes, directed by Patricia Norris, a long-time Lynch collaborator. Simple staples from past decades were updated and used with modern ease, while the trends that would define the next decade could be glimpsed in its infancy, making "Twin Peaks" a period piece out of time.

There was no lack of convincing characters with different looks. From coffee-obsessed FBI special agent Dale Cooper (Kyle MacLachlan) in his beige raincoat and glossy officer cut to Hawaiian-shirted psychiatrist Dr. Jacoby (Russ Tamblyn) to the all-seeing Log Lady (Catherine E Coulson) in her red rimmed glasses.

Audrey (Sherilyn Fenn) performs her infamous solo dance at the Double R restaurant

Audrey (Sherilyn Fenn) performs her infamous solo dance at the Double R restaurant Credit: From YouTube

Women in particular embodied the twin spirits of repression and desire in the city, and nothing more than adolescent Audrey Horne (Sherilyn Fenn). The daughter of intriguing businessman Benjamin Horne, Audrey is bored, imaginative, and doesn't care what they think. When we find her sulking around her father's wood-paneled Great Northern Hotel, eagerly terrorizing a group of Norwegian businessmen with her morbid recounting of the city's recent assassination, she epitomizes the 1950s childhood in riding shoes and a pink angora sweater tucked into a plaid skirt.

Audrey Horne (Sherilynn Fenn) smoking in the school bathroom

Audrey Horne (Sherilynn Fenn) smoking in the school bathroom Credit: From YouTube

Audrey Horne (Sherilyn Fenn) at the One-Eyed Jacks brothel

Audrey Horne (Sherilyn Fenn) at the One-Eyed Jacks brothel Credit: From YouTube

It's no surprise, then, when we later see Audrey trade in her flats for kitty red heels hidden in her school locker, or coldly smoke in the girls' bathroom, with her A-shaped eyebrows and sweater hugging the figure, setting up the kind of scene that pushed lobbyists to pressure Hollywood to stop letting actors smoke on screen, because it looked too good. Or, in a moment that made television history, Audrey, dressed in a slim black dress, twists a cherry stem with her tongue.

Veronica in "Riverdale" is an obvious heir to Audrey's teenage vampire personality, but so is Courtney Love from the 90s, with her ragged looks; independent and energetic Rory and Lorelai from "Gilmore Girls" in jeans and MAC lipstick; and "Glee" entertainer and enthusiast Santana.

Lara Flynn Boyle as Donna Hayward crying at her desk

Lara Flynn Boyle as Donna Hayward crying at her desk Credit: CBS Photo File / Getty Images

At the other end of the mid-century spectrum is Donna, the kind-hearted daughter of the city's doctor, cut from the neighbor's best cloth. Even when she cries in the middle of class, suddenly aware that something terrible has happened to her best friend Laura, it's hard not to be distracted by her impeccably manicured nails.

But Lynch's nostalgia didn't end with the 1950s. Norma, owner of the Double R restaurant (played by Peggy Lipton from "Bewitched" and "The Mod Squad") updates the look of the working-class restaurant in "Alice," which It developed from 1974 to 1985, bringing the elegance of a party dress to her blue and white uniform, packed with an integrated apron and lamb sleeves.

Peggy Lipton as Norma Jennings, owner of the Double R restaurant

Peggy Lipton as Norma Jennings, owner of the Double R restaurant Credit: ABC Photo Archives / Walt Disney Television / Getty Images

Similarly, Josie Packard (Joan Chen), the phenomenally elegant widow of the former owner of the city mill, radiates pure glamor. With immaculately red-stained lips and wisps of jet-black hair, she bridges the gap between 1980s power suits and the most laid-back tailoring that would take over the 90s. Josie always looks directly off the runway, Whether it's wearing a green silk robe, a red sweater dress, or high-waisted plaid pants paired with a structural brown cardigan (arguably the best outfit in the series).

Joan Chen as Josie Packard, widow and heir to the sawmill at Twin Peaks

Joan Chen as Josie Packard, widow and heir to the sawmill at Twin Peaks Credit: ABC Photo Archives / Walt Disney Television / Getty Images

There were only eight episodes in the first season of Twin Peaks, but it was enough to start the 1990s on an elegant and preemptive note. Woolen sweaters, woolen cardigans, woolen stockings, A-line skirts and plaid, plaid, plaid would soon be reflected in Seattle grunge and "Clueless" tenderness, while the lack of fashion accessories and women's short hair would become part of The Minimalist Code of the Decade.
David Duchovny as DEA Agent Denise Bryson

David Duchovny as DEA Agent Denise Bryson Credit: From YouTube

And although the second season was full of pleasant surprises: DEA agent and trans woman Denise Bryson, played by David Duchovny, arrives in town, and the reboot gave fans a rare hit in the small town, 30 years ago. It's still something special about those first eight episodes, a magical quality that hasn't been replicated yet.

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